| Hilltop | Trek | Village | Campground |
| Navajo Falls | Havasu Falls | Mooney Falls |
| Beaver Trek | Beaver Falls | Colorado Trek |
| Colorado River |
To Supai and Beyond
Thinking of making a trek to Supai? Beyond? If so, read through this walk-through. It will take you from the Hualapai Hilltop, down through the village of Supai, further down to the campgrounds and even all the way to the Colorado River; if that is your destination!
There are many MUST HAVE items you need should you decide to take on any portion of this hike; especially if you go during the summer months! One of those items is a reservation to be in Supai; more on that later. This walk-through will attempt to call out when and where each item is necessary as well as what you can expect along the way. I hope you run across this walk-through before you head off on your adventure and I hope it helps!
Have you been to Supai before? Am I missing something? Please let me know via the email me section located on the left side of this page! Thank you!
The Drive:
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| From Route 66, just East of Peach Springs, AZ and West of Seligman, AZ, take Indian Route 18....forever....(~50 miles) 'till you end up winding down a hill and finally at a dead end; the Hualapai Hilltop. The signs are much better now than they've been in the past. Note: Your nearest services will be Peach Springs, Arizona. Plan accordingly! Also, Peach Springs is a very small town; you may have trouble finding food/fuel at night. If you are approaching Supai from the West, I'd recommend getting last minute items, especially if you flew into Vegas, in Kingman, Arizona; for example, those fuel canisters that you couldn't take on the plane. Wildlife: (Back to Top) Be cautious; especially when driving this road at night. I have seen Bison, Elk, Cows, Horses, Rabbits, and Coyotes while driving this road and all of them were directly in the road, minus the Bison. On more than one occasion, I have had to come to a complete stop in the road due to either domestic animals or wildlife. I can imagine that coming around a corner during the night and meeting a herd of cattle can't end up good for either of you. |
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I've always liked this map! While not at all the most detailed or to scale, it doesn't need to be and wasn't meant to be. It does such a great job at putting the area into perspective. Not only does it show the key features, such as the Hualapai Hilltop compared to Supai village compared to the Falls, but it also provides a map of the structures within the village. Very nicely done by Caryl Mcharney Design!
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Hualapai Hilltop: (Back to Top)
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| Parking, especially during peak season, can be hard to come by. Don't be surprised if you have to park down the road a bit from the trailhead. Last I was there (2014) the trailhead wasn't marked very well. I had to search for it the first time (2005) I hiked into Supai; that was six trips ago. It is located about where you would expect it to be though; at the far end of the parking lot. There is, or was, a railing close by that the Havasupai villagers use to tie their horses and mules up to when loading/unloading gear. Out of the six trips I have made into Supai, two of them had a storm during the evening like no other! Very heavy winds, rain and a lot of lightning. Plan accordingly, especially if you are in the area late August to early September. Personally, I love the storms and the changes they bring to the canyon and the waterfalls. More on that later, especially concerning Navajo Falls. |
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| From the top, it is a long way down! Be careful that you do not get any of your gear blown over the edge. If you do, it will be a while before you make it back to the top should you chose to go after it! If you set up a shelter, don't expect to be able to use tent stakes of any kind while at the hill-top. I have camped at the Hualapai Hilltop five out of the six times that I've been in the area. I have had good luck being able to find large rocks to tie up to. A few times I have had to pile up the rocks in order to create enough mass due to the winds. In the end, prepare for the winds even if they do not end up coming. It is much easier to do it while it is lighter than it is at 2:00 a.m. while the wind is blowing, it is raining and you are tired. The hill-top now has permanent toilets! If you have never been in the past, you may not understand just how awesome this is. Take my word for it, it is awesome! Enjoy! One more thing, do not be surprised if you end up with a four-legged friend/guide during your descent into the canyon and all the way to the village. Half of my trips I have been accompanied by one of the dogs that roam the village. I even had one, that we "named" Joe (Joe Dirt), who went all the way to the campgrounds with us, slept that evening with us and followed us down into the caves above Mooney Falls. If you've been to Mooney Falls, or if you keep reading this blog, you will understand why Joe didn't follow us much longer. Transportation to Supai: (Back to Top) There are other methods for getting down to the village and to the campgrounds. They include having your bags taken down via mule, riding a mule with your bags on a pack mule or even helicopter. If you plan on taking the 'copter down, there is a $10 fee per transaction on top of the fare. More information can be found HERE on the Tribe's official website. Note: The Tribe's site is known to be down at times. If so, try the next best thing and use the National Park's information. Click here if you are interested in a map on how to get to the Hualapai Hilltop and/or more information on the various methods of travel listed above. I make the assumption that, if you are not using one of the methods of transportation listed above, you are hiking in. If so, the rest of this writing should be of some benefit to you. Note: On the way out of the canyon, when you are potentially tired and sore from the hike in, you can fly your bags out on the helicopter and hike out without having to carry that load. I've used this service once. My bags were waiting for me, laying near the landing pad, when I got up to the Hilltop. Best $ I ever spent! Not sure what the rates for this service are now. Note: I'm not a fan of how the horses and mules are treated down in the canyon. I've never used them for these reasons and will never recommend them. I merely mention them as they are an option and I do want the reader to be aware of their options. However, seeing the condition of the passing horses, seeing the loads they were forced to carry and finding horse parts along the trail was enough for me to know that I'd not be using their services. Note Update: From making reservations in 2019, it would appear that their standards for their mule transportation have improved. I will attest to this more after my Oct trip. Little Hikers: (Back to Top) Way too often I've seen hikers, that were no older than five years old, struggling; badly. It is my recommendation that you rethink bringing down such junior hikers. With that being said, there are some little hikers that will do just fine and surely their parents know best, but of those I've seen, it was a tough 10 miles for them. The Falls will be there. It is just my opinion, but wait to bring them down in the canyon when they are a few years older so the hike will be more enjoyable. After all, you want them to enjoy the trip and, probably, want them to do such trips again. Dragging them for 10 miles will not do much to make them want to go back. Before you go: Plan. Plan. Plan. There is really too much that could be said here, so I, unlike the rest of this rambling walk-through, will keep it short. This walk-through assumes you are not hiking alone. Now, am I against hiking alone? Not at all. As a matter of fact, if I were against hiking alone, I'd be stuck at home a lot without a hiking partner. With that being said, do be careful and plan accordingly. Back to planning. My advice, "Use your friend." Share the load. If you are traveling in a pair or a group, divide up items that make sense. For example, why should one person carry a tent, the tent poles, the tent stakes, and the rain-fly? Divide the load among those that will be using it. Try your best not to exceed 20% of your body weight when packing. The lighter the better. Trust me, you probably don't need all you are planning to bring. One last thing before you go: (Back to Top) Before you head off down the switchbacks and onward toward the village, do not go without a sufficient amount of water! You will easily hike 7 miles before you get a glimpse of any water and another mile (8 total) before you reach the village and any place where you are able to purchase anything to drink. So, how much water is necessary? Well, a lot of that depends upon you. Do you sweat a lot? Are you an experienced hiker or backpacker and are you familiar with your hiking water intake amounts? Are you from the desert climate and/or conditioned? There is no way I can accurately tell you how much water "you" need. I can, however, make an overall and very general recommendation. Cary more than you think you need. You want your urine running as clear as possible, always. I tend to prefer to urinate so much that it is annoying. I'd rather be annoyed because I have to stop to pee than be annoyed that I have a dehydration headache or worse complications from dehydration. With that being said, it is nice to be aware of what dehydration symptoms are. For that, I will leave it to the experts and direct you to WebMD. Also, if you are carrying more water than you think you need, and your friend(s) is/are carrying more water than he/she/they need, share. When to leave: (Back to Top) One sure way to limit the amount of water you need to drink is to leave early. Sure, leaving late is an option, and doable, but those rocks do not cool down fast. You may lose the radiation from a direct sun, but you will still feel more of its effects by leaving late than by leaving early. My recommendation: Be packed up and ready to head down the switchbacks before sunrise. With that being said, you will need a headlamp if leaving before sunrise; make that two. Leaving early is great as far as water consumption and heat go, but it increases a bit of risk from low lit trail hazards. Personally, I use a Black Diamond headlamp as a primary lamp and an Energizer lamp as a backup. Both have four key features: A wide beam. a spot beam, red night vision (good for night photography), and finally, they are water resistant/proof. Don't know when the next sunrise is or when sunrise is on a future date? Use the Sunrise for Seligman, AZ, provided by TimeAndDate.com to help you in your planning. Speaking of leaving early: When leaving early, you will initially be hiking along the Eastern wall of the canyon. As the sun rises, it will hit the Western wall while you are still in the shadows. This gives an awesome effect of being able to see all of the gorgeous purples, pinks, and oranges of the sun coming off the opposite canyon wall while you are on the dimly lit Eastern side. If you get this opportunity, take it! If you get a good picture of it, send it to me and I'll add it to this walk-through with credit to you! Bring a filter: (Back to Top) On the bright side of things, assuming you, or someone in your group, is carrying a water filter, you really do not have to concern yourself with carrying a lot of water around with you once you reach the area just outside the village. There is water everywhere along the creek! Just do me and yourself a favor, use a filter. My recommendation for a filter type is the MSR Mini Works. I carry it. It is a bit slower than some, but very dependable, field cleanable and you'd be hard pressed to find a filter that, well, filters better. Chemical treatments are fine, but they will not remove items such as dirt and the huge amounts of dissolved minerals in the water; hence its pretty color. More on that later... Note: You will be expected to pack your trash out of the canyon. At a minimum, drop off your trash into a trash bin as you enter the village coming from the campgrounds. Scouts Motto - Be prepared! |
Trek To Village: (Back to Top)
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| (Mile 1+) (Back to Top)
You can count on the hike to Supai to take somewhere north of 4 hours. Odds are you will slow your pace, a bit, through town for many reasons. One reason, the place is simply unique and interesting! You may want to spend a bit of time in a few of the local establishments while you are passing through. I highly recommend it and will discuss the village a bit more later on in this write-up. Keep in mind, assuming you aren't staying at in the lodge in the village, you still have two more miles to go to get to the campgrounds; which is the last leg of the hike and also has its share of time-soaking sight-seeing opportunities, so plan accordingly.
This last leg can easily take you a couple of hours, but can easily be done in one; assuming you hike straight through until you reach the campgrounds. I mentioned this portion being the "last leg" of the hike. For most people, the campground is the last leg. Some of the more daring and adventurous will venture on down the steep, often slippery, chained cliff wall to Mooney Falls. Even fewer venture off to Beaver Falls and even fewer than that continue to venture further to the Colorado River. If you think this is you then you surely need to read on! Now, back to the switchbacks. At probably just more than a mile, the switchbacks, from the hill-top down to the rest stop at the bottom, are easily the hardest part of the hike to the village; without a doubt. Be careful here as there are a lot of opportunities for potential slips, falls and twisted ankles or knees. With that being said, a good set of trekking poles can do wonders in helping alleviate stress on your joints from the hips down. If you don't own a pair, I recommend getting a pair before you go and maybe even practicing with them prior to a trip to the canyon as, for some, they are a bit awkward at first. There are many types. I recommend a three section aluminum pole such as this Leki pair. Remember them when planning your hike out. As I mentioned before, I recommend an early start as you get to take advantage of the canyon being at its coolest. Night hikes are neat, yet frowned upon by the locals. If you do leave early, ensure you use a headlamp such as a Black Diamond as walking with trekking poles and trying to hold a flashlight is quite the challenge. Here is a great Black Diamond lamp that will fully light up the trail with a wide beam while reserving the ability to use a spot beam along with the wide beam or alone. It also has a red night vision setting that comes in very handy should you be wanting to take any night photography in and around the falls. With that being said, and ironically, the best hike I ever had was hiking out of the canyon, overnight, under a full moon; we barely needed our headlamps! Without the blazing sun and afternoon heat, we plowed up the switchbacks as if they weren't even there. Remember as you go: one step at a time and every step taken is a step took. | ||
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(Miles 2-7) (Back to Top)
Don't fret, not all of the downhill, towards the rest-stop at the bottom, is treacherous. Much of the trail looks like the above image. If you can, start your hike just before sunrise. I say this because, if you can begin your hike about the time the sun begins to rise then you are in for a treat. Standing against the East wall you will be in the shadows looking across the canyon to the West wall where the sun will be hitting with colors ranging from purples and blues to oranges and reds. It's almost magical...!
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When you first start out, after managing the switchbacks, the trail isn't that remarkable at all. The trail will split off in, what appears to be, different directions. No need to worry as each one will come back together and lead you on the correct path. Before long, any maybe without you even realizing it, something neat begins to happen.
Those switchbacks, you've by now left behind, can be pretty tough on your joints and your feet. Take time to listen to your body for early signs of problems. There's a good chance that, if you are hiking in new boots or have shoes that aren't laced properly or maybe do't fit perfect, you could feel the early warning signs of a blister forming about now. If you do, stop! Take care of the situation while it is simply a hot spot. There is too much ahead of you that should be enjoyable and having a big ole blister on the bottom of your primary modes of transportation won't be good. I highly recommend you have a small first aid kit handy and in that kit, make sure there is some mole skin. Many all in one kits do not have it and it must be bough separately. Regardless, go through your first aid kit and throw out what you do not want and add items you do want. Also, keep in mind that, if traveling in a group, everyone doesn't necessarily have to carry a kit. As I mentioned before, share the load.
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Where the canyon bottom once was wide and flat, it now slowly seems to grow walls along the sides of the trail as the trail begins to, very slowly, descend in elevation. Every now and then you get a glimpse above the ever growing walls along the trail and see that the "outer" canyon is still almost just as wide as it was before, only now you are beginning to get lower in an "inner" canyon. It is easier described as there becoming a canyon within a canyon.
The reason for this is clear and should be on the forefront of your mind at all times when in the canyon, especially if you are hiking during the monsoon season. As the multiple sections of the canyon begin to funnel together, so does the water-flow that can, and evidently does, flow through the area. Keep an eye out for high ground as you hike. If with a large group, I recommend you do not get too spread out too much so communication does not become a problem should you need to seek high ground. Remember, just because it isn't raining on you doesn't mean it isn't raining elsewhere out in the desert. Water does not soak up well in the desert. Much of it runs off and drains into the canyons; precisely where you are!
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There is plenty of beautiful plant-life around but can be easily missed due to the also very beautiful landscapes that can easily overpower it. Seek it out.
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Early on in the hike, there is not a lot of shade opportunity. If you've planned well, this period is either early on or very late in your hike. Either way, there is plenty of shade opportunity throughout most of the hike once the canyon narrows. Water, on the other hand, is not available throughout most of the hike. Heading towards the village, water is not available until you are about a mile out of the village itself; plan accordingly. The opposite is true when hiking out. The last ~7 miles of the hike you should assume there will be no water available. Keep in mind, as you leave the canyon, the last ~1 mile are switchbacks. These can be difficult and hot during the heat of the day. Plan accordingly. Get yourself a solid and dependable water container. My recommendation is a Nalgene as they are sturdy and they screw on to the bottom of the MSR Mini Works water filter; my fav!
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There are quite a few places where the flowing water has cleared out a nice shady spot for a break along the way to the village.
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As the canyon walls grow taller, so do the rocks around you. There are quite a few interesting spots that work perfectly for a nice snack-break. Some of the "rocks" in the trail are easily multiple stories high. Keep your eye out for fossils as I have found a couple Crinoids while walking along just before the trail begins to gain in elevation.
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Remember those walls that weren't there and then, seemingly all of a sudden, they were? My, how things have changed! Just a few miles ago, these walls were merely five foot tall, barely catching your eye and now they tower above you commanding your attention. To me, the strata are mesmerizing!
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If you've made this hike before, then you will recognize the cottonwood tree in the background. It is quite a refreshing site when you come around the corner and it pops into view. On subsequent trips, it'll serve as a landmark to reference where you are at relative to the village or the hilltop depending on what direction you are going. Its familiarity always brings a smile to my face.
:-)
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If you have never been to the Grand Canyon before, you are in for a treat with this trip. If you have only stood at the top and looked down into the canyon, consider yourself as having never been. Do yourself a favor, base-camp at the campgrounds and spend a day or two going down to the Colorado River and back. It is a long trip; somewhere around 10 miles each way, but so worth it. Read further along as I discuss the entire trip. Need a guide? Contact me, I always need a reason to go! ;-)
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Don't be surprised if you run across animals roaming around the canyon; unless you run into them at night, because then it is creepy; trust me! I walked upon a large group of eyes staring back at me one early morning, they stopped me in my tracks. Turned out to be a group of horses hangin' out and all was fine; once my heart got back to beating normally. ;-)
If anything, I usually run across horses roaming around. Many times I'll see a mother and her colt. If you do run across any I advise that they are left alone; minus the dogs of course. Besides, follow the dog and you'll likely end up at the village; I've tested it. ;-)
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On special occasions, such as the Peach Festival which occurs the 2nd weekend in August, you may encounter abnormal activities going on such as cattle being driven through the canyon. Do yourself, the Cowboys and the cattle a favor and pull over and take a break. It'll surely be an entertaining one.
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Odds are good that you will come across individuals running horses up to the hilltop or packing down gear or tourists. Keep in mind that most of these individuals are working and see people over and over and over day after day in the canyon. While seeing them may be new to you, seeing you is not new to them. Do not be surprised if they pass by staying focused on what they are doing.
Right Of Way: (Back to Top)
Just as with any hiking trip, be courteous and respect the right-of-way. It is considered proper trail-etiquette, when passing hikers, to allow the person or persons going uphill to have the right of way. Step off to the right side of the trail and let them pass. Now, with that being said, the uphill hiker may desire a breather and request you pass; fine. That covers hikers, but what about animals and more specifically working animals such as those you are sure to meet on the trail to Supai?
According to REI's website article on trail etiquette, "If you’re sharing the trail with equestrians, give them as wide a berth as possible and make sure not to make abrupt movements as they pass and talk calmly when approaching to avoid startling the animal." This is sound advice and advice one would reasonably be expected to heed while in the canyon.
With that being said, you will, occasionally, run across some of the locals that are more than willing to converse. The individual pictured above is a retired Marine who went back home after serving his country in the military. I enjoyed my brief chat with him. Semper Fi...!
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(Miles 7-8) (Back to Top)
You will come to a "Y" in the canyon. Each time I have made the hike it has always been pretty evident that you should go left at the "Y." I can imagine a few instances where this might not be so clear; for example at night or after a flood. With that being said, when you reach a decision point, go left!
Keep your eye out for the vegetation to thicken and for the number of trees to increase. Minus the one cottonwood in the center of the trail, there have been no trees until now. Soon, you will begin to hear the sounds of running water. Unless you are dying of thirst, be patient as the trail meets up with the irrigation flow soon. If you do drink from the water, filter it as it is heavy in minerals; hence the color. This will also be evident when you see the calcium carbonate deposits that line Havasu Creek. Again I will peddle the MSR Mini Works especially if you are using a Nalgene or water bottle with a similar, and very common, thread pattern.
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When you get just outside the village, the shade increases as does the amount of moisture available. Enjoy it!
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About a mile out from the village, you will come into contact with your first glimpse of the beauty that lies ahead; the blue-green waters of Supai. The Havasupai even take their name from the beautiful waters that flow through the area as Havasupai means "people of the blue-green waters."
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Supai Village: (Back to Top)
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After a long hike, the anticipation builds seeing signs such as the one pictured above.
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| The Sinyella Store is, in my opinion, the secret oasis of the entire canyon let alone of Supai Village. I have stopped at this store every visit I have made to the village both coming and going. Do yourself a favor and plan on a nice Gatorade or ice cream as soon as you reach the village. You don't have to take my word for it. Check out the store's reviews on Yelp! Other than the Sinyella Store, there are quite a few other places to see or visit while in the village.
Wigleeva is a sacred rock formation in the sandstone high above the village of Supai. The old superstitious stories that the villagers tell speak of the Wigleeva and how they stand above them and their village as guardian spirits and watch over them for both their safety and their future. Per NCHGC, "Havasupai legends state that if these pillars ever fall, the canyon walls will close in and destroy the people." I've also heard the legend to say that Wigleeva stands over them as a protector and, should the need arise, will close in the canyon over the top of them; thereby protecting them. The latter sounds a bit more of a "realistic" legend to me.
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Reservations: (Back to Top)
Contact the Havasupai Tourist Office for both Entry and Camping *Permits: 928-448-2121 928-448-2141 928-448-2180 *As of 2019, reservations are all made online tho I will keep this phone information up as it may come in handy. For Online Reservations visit: Havasupai Reservations Note: They only allow ~350 visitors in the canyon each day. Also, they begin taking reservations on 1 Feb. I got online AT 0800 and was finally able to make a reservation 2.5 hours later. Keep trying!
Go to the Visitor's Center; you will need to visit them in order to confirm your arrival and receive your entrance bracelet allowing you to travel beyond the village.
Note: The Visitor's Center is not at the entrance of the village. Havasupai Tribe Info: PO Box 10 Supai, AZ 86435 928-448-2111 Phone 928-448-2551 Fax Official Site There is the Café in the center of the village just past the Visitor's Center. Here you can stop and use the restroom if you need to as well as grab something to eat or drink. They have a menu posted on their website.
Directly across from the Café is the Convenience Store and the Post Office as well as the small Police Station run by the Bureau of Indian Affairs Law Enforcement Services. Their phone number is (928) 448-2891.
Ensure, while you are in the village, that you bring a few addresses with you. Grab a few postcards from the Convenience Store and mail them out in the Post Office that shares the same building as the store. The addressee will be the lucky recipient of a postcard with The Mule Train Mail postage stamp. I do believe it to be the only mule trail mail left in the United States. (Correct me via email if I am wrong.) Don't forget to send yourself one and have it waiting for you when you get home! :-)
Also located in the village is a lodge you can stay in. I have never stayed in the lodge and have read both positive and negative reviews of it; though I do hear it is better lately than it has been in the past. If you've been, feel free to email me a review and/or pictures and I will add them to this Walk-through and credit you for the information. Contact the Havasupai Lodge directly for reservations at: 928-448-2111 928-448-2101 Email: htlodge0@havasupai-nsn.gov
Further down the trail from the Café and the convenience store you'll run into the school and the Havasupai Bible Church. (pictured above)
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Fifty Foot Falls: (Back to Top)
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| Tucked back away from the main trail is Fifty Foot Falls. Each of the Falls has their own characteristics; all begging to be explored and photographed. Which is your favorite? Mine, Beaver Falls! |
Little Navajo Falls: (Back to Top)
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| (Miles 8-10) (Back to Top)
The first set of falls you come to, visible from the trail, will be on your left shortly after leaving the village. This waterfall is known as the Little Navajo Falls. Being very exposed, the sun is good almost all day at this waterfall. With that being said, do not forget to consider sunscreen. How terrible would it be to get sunburned across your shoulders and then have to backpack out with your pack hanging on those same shoulders!?
It should also be noted that some sort of water shoe is highly recommended while down swimming around in any of the falls or creek areas. You may see a few people without them but, if you do, it is probably their first time down to Supai and they are more than likely walking around in the water very gingerly. Personally, I've used Keens in the past without (m)any problems. I've even put in ~50 miles in one weekend in a set of Keens while down in this canyon. Too bad they don't pay me to advertise for them. ;-)
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The base of Little Navajo Falls provides a great place to cool off after the long hike, tho the urge to press on and get to the campground and unload your gear may be high at this point. As seen in the image above, Little Navajo Falls is a descent sized waterfall for jumping, tho the official position of the Tribe is that there is not jumping allowed from any of the falls.
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You may even walk by the falls and not know it as it is most easily seen after passing it. If you do, no worries as it is a short uphill trek from the campgrounds to Little Navajo Falls.
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If you want to get away from some of the larger crowds that Havasu Falls and Mooney Falls can bring, then this is a descent option. As you can see from the picture above, there is a space behind the falls that is quite fun to jump from. Note: The first time I hiked to Supai, the Little Navajo Falls itself was not even in the same place, so expect things to have changed a little if you go. If you want your waterfall experience to be even more exclusive then a trek down to Beaver Falls is a must. More on that later.
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Havasu Falls: (Back to Top)
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Havasu Falls sits just above the campground. The more popular and picturesque of the falls, Havasu provides space for sunbathing, swimming, playing in the cascades and picnicking.
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Many great photos come from the location above which just happens to be the first glimpse one gets of the falls from the trail. Save room on your camera tho as there are plenty of picturesque spots downstream!
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The base of the falls is rather large, yet can be quite crowded. Keep in mind, individuals and groups worldwide see this particular waterfall depicted on posters, in movies and other such media. It is quite popular.
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The image above depicts a portion of the area just below Havasu Falls. This area provides a great place for picnicking. This area can be quite shady. Just across the pool is a smaller area that often has more sunlight. Sunshine is best here typically around the noon time-frame. Note: No camping is allowed at the base of the falls.
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The Campground: (Back to Top)
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After getting an eye full of Havasu Falls, the trail descends into the campground. There are signs pointing you towards the spring located along the left wall of the canyon as you enter the campground. Many fill their water containers directly from the spring itself. I have done it many times without a problem. With that being said, it is always best to filter your water before you drink it.
Note: There are Navajo Tacos, Hot Dogs, Flat Bread, cold Powerade and Gatorade for sale near the entrance to the campgrounds at the top of Havasu Falls; cash only. Also of note. the locals live on Supai time. With that being said, hours may vary but are mainly from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. or until they are sold out. | ||||||
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There are quite a few different places to camp and many of them are directly along the Havasu Creek. Many of the sites accommodate tents well while a few offer up the ability to string up a hammock or even a few hammocks. When choosing a location, consider traffic flow, your shelter type, restroom locations (top of the campground and bottom of the campground), as well as the sun/shade desired. It is really that easy.
One other thing to consider: squirrels. You may have met some aggressive squirrels in the past. I'd argue, without even having seen the squirrels you have met, that there aren't many that are much more aggressive than the ones in this campground. With that beings said, your food is not safe if it is not in your hands. Just remember that.
Update: I am being told that buckets with lids are being offered to the campers to help protect your food from the squirrels. If you can confirm this, please email me. There is an email link on the top-left side of this page. | ||||||
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The campgrounds flow along the creek starting from just below Havasu Falls and downstream to the restrooms just above Mooney Falls and are a vacation alone and of themselves. If you want, relax, your hiking can be done at this point. If you end up wanting a bit more adventure head downstream, past Mooney Falls, to Beaver Falls and even beyond to the Colorado River!
Note: There are NO campfires allowed in the canyon.
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Some of the Havasu Creek crossings are quite wide and sturdy. (Keep in mind, these can easily be gone in the matter of one rainfall, so expect them to change; often.)
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| Not all of the creek crossings are equal. The two above are definitely for the adventurous! | ||||||
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From the campground, there is a very small cave blasted into the walls by prospectors back in the day. Check it out, but be careful. Also, there are quite a few more scattered throughout the canyons. Many of the others are much deeper and darker, so be prepared if you go in. I've even heard of people getting lost in them, so be careful.
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As with the hike in, keep high ground in the back of your mind and in front of your decision making. Remember: it doesn't have to be raining on you for it to be raining elsewhere and draining into the canyon.
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Mooney Falls: 0.5 miles from Campground (Back to Top)
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Just downstream of the campgrounds, about 1/2 mile, is Mooney Falls. At the top, there is an overlook that provides a nice overall view of the falls and the pools below.
Continuing on, the trail begins to wind down at a moderately difficult descent until you reach the area pictured above. It should be noted that if you had difficulties getting to this point, you may want to rethink going much further.
Note: If you plan on going any further, or if you simply want to adventure around, I highly recommend having a day-pack for day-hikes around the canyon. It is highly likely you will need sunscreen, snacks or simply a place to stow your camera/phone while you are out; not to mention a small first-aid kit as if it highly likely you, or someone in your group, will end up with a scrape during your stay. | ||||||||
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The Sign above reads, "Descend At Own Risk." Immediately, you look over to your right, relative to the sign, and you see the narrow tunnel entrance and probably think, "Meh, I've got this."
Well, you probably do, but just to let you know, the sign isn't concerned with the narrow passageway next to it. The sign is concerned with the obstacle that exists just beyond that passageway.
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The passageway leading down to "the obstacle" is large enough for the average human to navigate, tho knocking your head, knee or some other of your 2,000 body parts is a high probability.
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If you've made it through the narrow passageways then you are now looking at two things. One of those things is a beautiful view of Mooney Falls! The other is "the obstacle."
In reality, with mind over matter, the descent the rest of the way down the canyon wall is not difficult at all. You simply have to respect it. If you think about each handhold and each foothold before you make your move, you should be fine. With that being said, there are some aspects of the climb that are out of your control such as others actions.
It is highly likely that you will pass an individual going in the opposite direction. If this situation does present itself, it is best to stay patient and wait for the person to pass. Trying to grasp for or hold on to the chains that run up the wall while another is grasping at the same chains can create quite a safety issue. Another aspect of the climb that is out of your hands is the fact that the rock wall is often slippery. Also, during the summer months, the wait to go down to or up from Mooney can be quite long. Be patient.
Note: The rocks, chains, and ladders are constantly exposed to spray from the waterfalls. They will be wet and should be considered slippery at each and every step. With that beings said, I highly recommend you do not bring down anything that will not fit into your day-pack. People often climb down with towels draped around them or even with floats in hand. Not safe at all.
Note^2: On the topic of floats, if you do decide to bring down a raft or any other flotation device to Mooney, or any of the Falls for that matter, please remember that you are required to hike-out what you've hiked-in. Don't be that person who leaves their raft down at the falls. | ||||||||
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The rewards for having scaled the canyon wall on the descent to Mooney are totally worth it. The unique views offered, the lifetime of memories made and the photos that help to keep the memories fresh are all worth the white knuckles, doubts, and second guesses.
The area can be quite shady with the best times for sun coming in the mornings.
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| To Beaver: ~4 miles To CO River: ~8 miles One look back at Mooney Falls before heading downstream on the trek to Beaver Falls. |
Beaver Falls Trek: (Back to Top)
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Not long after leaving Mooney falls, you will come across a large field of wild grapes. When ripe, you will find that they've been grazed on by passing hikers. Keep your eyes open for a tasty treat!
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The trail will cross the creek quite a few times. Every time the canyon takes a turn you can expect to have to cross.
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Ensure you have a water filter with you. Carrying enough water to get you down to Beaver Falls, or beyond to the Colorado River, and then back would be tough and even potentially unrealistic. Either way, it is not advised to drink straight from the creek as there are a lot of minerals in the water, potential bacteria and viruses and, not to mention, plenty of people and horses relieving themselves upstream. Carrying a filter alleviates you from having to carry extra water.
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I do not remember this being built on my previous trips, of course, I could have missed it; I suppose. Somebody spent a lot of energy creating a nice place to rest.
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Anyone that has made this trek knows exactly where this is as there is only one palm along the entire route.
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In the past, you had to climb this groovy log ladder and use a rope to get to the trail above your head. Since then, a newer ladder has been put into place, but should you take it?
Well, sure, you can take the ladder; in whatever current form it happens to be in. Otherwise, you can simply head left (for a much easier trek) down the creek vs right and up the wall. Keep in mind, these routes are subject to change. If you have ever been down this way, and then went back a few years later, you know exactly what I mean. Either way, you choose, you will be fine. Just stay between the canyon walls and keep the current flowing in the proper direction depending upon which way you happen to be traveling. Head downstream to get to Beaver or the Colorado and head upstream to get back to Mooney and the campgrounds. | ||||
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Take note of the recessed area in the cliff above. It seems like you hike hours and this thing is still in view. Or, maybe it is following you!? ;-)
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Do you see a face? It may be Pareidolia.
Pareidolia is a psychological phenomenon in which the mind responds to a stimulus (an image or a sound) by perceiving a familiar pattern where none exists.
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If you see this sign, look down, you are at Beaver Falls; which is the last thing you see before leaving the Havasupai Tribal lands and enter the Grand Canyon National Park.
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Beaver Falls: (Back to Top)
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Welcome to Beaver Falls! The sun is best here in the early afternoon hours, but it won't last long!
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The Falls are in two distinct sections with the lower section being the area you reach first from the trail. This area, as of this writing, is decent for relaxing but not at all for jumping. Who knows what happens after the next monsoon?
Note: There are often small caves that are tucked into the falls. They come and go with the seasons and depending upon how much volume of water is currently flowing over the falls. The place is always changing. | ||||
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The upper section, seen in the background of this photo, provides some of the better jumping heights.
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If you are going to jump, be smart. Jump like this......
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...and not like this!
Please keep in mind that jumping from the Falls can be, ok.....is, dangerous. Imagine yourself down at Beaver Falls (as pictured) and hitting a rock that you just didn't initially see. Now, imagine the difficulty it would be for you to hike out or, worse yet, climb back up the wall at Mooney with a broken ankle, arm, or worse! There have, in the past, been people that had to be airlifted out of the canyon due to injuries. It should be noted that this process isn't cheap and you should expect that bill. Taking that a bit further, you will receive a hefty bill.....if you are lucky. Also, not all places in the canyon offer an area that you can be airlifted from, not to mention the multitude of other restrictions to helicopter flight such as weather and potentially even daylight. If you end up having to have a crew come down and haul you to an area where you can be lifted out, I am sure you can imagine the additional expenses piling up. Be Smart. Be safe. | ||||
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Or, better yet, relax like this!
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Colorado River Trek: (Back to Top)
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The final leg to the Colorado River is just as beautiful as the previous parts of the canyon you've seen.
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It is easy to forget that life is going on outside of the canyon, but every now and then you get a subtle reminder such as this one.
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There are quite a few creek crossings from Mooney down to the Colorado River and none of them are on a bridge; plan on getting wet. As mentioned before, you will need some sort of shoe on that can be submerged....., a lot. Personally, as I mentioned before, I use Keens. Matter of fact, I've hiked from the campgrounds down to the Colorado River and back in a pair of them. That's not to say that I did not have a few spots on my feet that were, let's say, a bit worn. Strategically placed medical tape, and even duct tape, fixed that.
I wore these as opposed to having to stop, take off boots, cross and then, once fairly dry, put boots back on. They also provide good toe protection. Stub your toe just once and you will know what I mean. My first trip down, I simply wore soft water shows. Not.Any.More...!
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The creek crossings seem to never stop, nor do the wonders of nature. This rock is easily the size of a small house. I did not notice it the last time I was in the canyon. Anyone see this recently?
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The power of Mother Nature is very evident down in this canyon!
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Colorado River: (Back to Top)
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The long anticipated approach to the Colorado River finally arrives. It is pretty evident when you see the canyon "T" off and the color of the water goes from a beautiful blue to a murky brown.
Let us see your pictures of the confluence. Post them HERE...! | ||||||
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Odds are, when you get down to the Colorado River, the river will be low enough that it exposes the rocks seen above.
If you are so lucky, and the weather is good upstream, this is an awesome place to lay out a bed roll and sleep under the stars!
Note: Keep safety first in mind. There is nothing saying that Mother Nature cannot send a wall of water down the river regardless of what the skies above you look like. Planning is imperative if you are going to spend any amount of time down by the river. Even if you do plan, and the weather looks nice, keep a watch at what direction the level of water is going; that is, rising or lowering.
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The River's edge is a great place to recharge for the trip back. Stop. Rest. Relax. Have Lunch. Enjoy!
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